Back on track

Our next adventure was to hop back onto the dirt road in the form of the Oodnadatta track.  An iconic road that follows the old Ghan train line before it moved to its western path, it also follows more of John Stuart's path north in the1860's. The track is also based on past aboriginal trading routes. So lots of history.  We didn't join the track at the start so we missed visiting Oodnadatta township but we ticked off the rest of it. 

We did a quick fuel stop and tried to top up the gas bottle. Turns out gas can't be filled up before 9am in any of the gas stations. We found a variety of reasons from "lack of staff" to "it's too early for gas" to "the guy that does that comes in around 9:39 or it could be 10:00".  You had to laugh as there wasn't much else you could do.

We headed out of Coober Pedy under solemn grey skies. Light drizzle and a fairly strong headwind. Not the perfect conditions to head out. It looked like the weather was worse where we had been and not where we going, so off we went into the wide grey yonder. 

Our first aim was to get to Coward Springs, camping there overnight before heading to Marree. The landscape opens up pretty quickly and you can certainly see the effects of good winter rains. Like everywhere else the place does come alive with a few drops of rain. 

Spot the green stuff!

The road was a bit slippery in spots but nothing to serious. It did however show the signs of some recent heavy rains that people have talked about with some fairly deep ruts and chewed up bits. With 15-20mm or so you would be in some real strife pretty quickly. 

The first township we came across was the famous William Creek pub. As it is customary to pop in and say hello, we did. Given the weather, a pie was top of the order. Whilst munching we had a lovely chat to a bus group that were having a meal before taking a scenic flight over Lake Eyre.  We were a bit confused initially how they got there as there was no bus in sight. Turns out they flew in on 6 chartered planes from Roxby Downs as part of their tour. The flight was on hold due to the weather so they were hanging out for a few hours till it cleared. Happy as Larry they were, with a variety of beverages and ice creams being consumed!  Our pie was awesome and hit the spot.

Charlie & Ernie outside the famous William Creek pub

Anyone know what this means?

With the rain showers looking to catch up with us, we headed off towards Cowards Springs arriving around lunch time. The weather hadn't improved much with drizzle around, but the wind had certainly picked up. Dad was the only one that ventured out to see the springs, the rest were just comfortable munching lunch in the car out of the weather!

The campground there is well fitted out with a donkey heated shower and flushing toilets. The owners were in Alice Springs for a few days so we missed catching up with them. They certainly have done a good job in restoring things and putting the museum together.

Where the old Ghan line came through 

Shower and toilet picture

There were only a few brave caravans and campers camping there, using the trees to provide some respite from the wind.  We noticed the numbers of people travelling has certainly dropped off as we head south! I wonder why!  Most of them have obviously stuck to the highway as they scramble north to the warm stuff!

After a quick walk around the campsite and the springs, a few quick snaps and we were back on the road, thinking we may make Marree our nights stop some 200 or so kilometres down the road.

This is the Coward Springs plunge pool, it was warm but not nearly warm enough to dip on the day we were there.

The springs runs out into the desert and has created a wetland in the middle of nowhere.  The bore has been going since around mid 1800's!

Just prior to Marree you pass the southern tip of south Lake Eyre. Firstly, we didn't realise there was a north and south before this!  And with a bit of water it, it was certainly an impressive sight.  You couldn't see the other side of it, and this is the small one!  It was as impressive as the catchment area, from east of Longreach, north of Mount Isa and west of Alice Springs.  They all run into the lake's basin.

The catchment basin of Lake Eyre

That's the lake in the distance

You do come along some strange places along the road.  Not sure if these guys advertise but it seems like someone thought "lets stick a plane or two and some other strange objects in the ground and people will come to middle of nowhere to see them".  Its called the Mutonia Sculture Park.  There are some very strange things out here including cars, trains, buses.  Worth a look at the website http://alturl.com/vm9t3 to see all manner of thing they have.

We arrived at our choice of caravan park in Marree, Drover's Run that afternoon.  The wind was still blowing a gale and with not much to stop it in the way of trees we tried to bunker down.  Looking at poor old Ernie when we arrived, clearly the last few hundred kilometres had a few more muddy patches.  The Stonestomper (or Romper Stomper as Katie calls it) collected a lovely roll or two of mud.

Our campsite at Marree's Drover's Run caravan park

Ernie looking a little on the muddy side (again!)

Although they lit a communal fire it wasn't the weather to stand out and chat.  On one side of the fire (the upwind side) you couldn't feel the warm, the other side was too smoky.  The fire was made from collecting the old railway sleepers from the train line.  There was quite a stash to get through, but not tonight.  In different conditions it would be very pleasant out there!  We bunkered down in the camp kitchen for dinner, it was the only place out of the wind, before a quick retreat to the camper after dishes for an early night.  Or so we thought.

The wind just howled all night long, we think that it would be have been the strongest wind we were in since our first camper trailer experience in Burrinjuck Dam a few years back. On that occasion there were 90km hour winds and we thought this was on par.  A few small adjustments during the night to ensure things didn't fall down were needed, a few extra pegs here and there.  But all we survived and were warm, inside. 

Leaving Marree we made our way down the last part of the track. We made a stop into the township of Farina. This little town is slowly being restored by a group of passionate volunteers since the mid 90's. If you keen to volunteer see the website  http://www.farinarestoration.com

Walking through the town and reading the information boards you get a sense of what the town was like during it's hay day. Fascinating bit of history. During the months of March - July each year is when the volunteers are there, rebuilding etc. We think it's during this time that the bakery is in operation. It's certainly one of very few bakeries still in operation in these parts. 

Joey's Farina picture

View of the underground wood fired bakery.

The southern part of the township

Along the way you come across sidings which were buildings for the workers that maintained the rail line.  They certainly stand out in such a stark landscape.  This one has been partially restored by the owners of Coward Springs to ensure that remains for many more years.

Margaret siding

The last section the track showed yet another side of this wonderful road.  It meant keeping to the racing line if you didn't want too much mud all over the vehicle and trailer.  Amazing big skies and with some much greenery around it seemed hard to remember that this was very arid land.

As we hit the bitumen and aired up we noticed this sitting on a truck. Turns out it's a caribou being shifted to Adelaide. Not sure where it came from but they did the Strzelecki track!  For more info (http://mobile.abc.net.au/news/2016-08-07/caribou-makes-final-journey-through-sa-outback/7698204)

Back on the tar we were able to pick up the pace a little. We stopped in Leigh Creek for lunch. It's a mining town that was built to support the massive Leigh Creek coal mine, but with the mine now closed its population has dropped from 7000 to around 2500. So it was pretty quite place!  The whole town is currently up for sale!

Leigh Creek welcome sign

With the rain having been a bit heavier down south, some of the roads we wanted to travel on to get to Willow Spring were closed. But we found a lovely track through on the geological trail that took us through the Branchina Gorge to our stop for the evening at Willow Springs station. 

The station is host to the very well known Skytrek 4wd track. We didn't think about doing it this time as its a full day but looking at the videos in the camp kitchen, it's certainly something to think about for a future trip. 

Although the wind dropped a bit, we still had dinner in the camp kitchen, which looked very new and was fitted out with all the gizmos.  That evening, using the car to not so successfully block the breeze we had our last camp fire of trip. Some of the wood we had carried from before King Canyon!