Saturday 30 July 2016

The rocks

After Kings canyon we enjoyed the tar road around to Uluru and Kata-Tjuta. It wasnt a very long drive at all and we started to see the sand dunes pop up as the road spears through them heading west.  The colour of the dirt was really red through here and combining the red with the desert in bloom meant a very easy drive for the eyes. 


The first big hill you come across is Mt Conner. In it own right it is a tourist attraction, and it is on private land that is part of the Curtin Springs station. That said it is very often confused with Uluru as travellers are excited to spot big rocks!

We didn't go out there on this trip but it was certainly a stunning view. Across the road we found out that you can the NT's largest salt lake, Lake Amadeus. Interestingly there aren't any signs with infomation on either of these stunning features. It was a matter of talking to people that we found out. 


As we continued towards Yalara, the town just outside the park where we were to camp, the boys were impressed with the number of different hotels.  It also has an airport that services daily flights from Alice Springs. Melbourne, Sydney and Cairns. With a large IGA and petrol station, it is a lovely little township. 

We arrived around 1pm and we were warned about a potential lenghty check in time. No such problems for us and we headed off to site 6A for setup.

We had only two nights here and had a fairly long list of things that we needed to do including bike rides round the base, going to the cultural centre, attending the  guided walks, doing walks round the Olga's and if possible a helicopter ride. We were a little lost as to how we could do this all in a 24 hour period.

We had planned to do a ride around the rock that afternoon wth the boys bikes and hiring a couple for mum and dad. This plan was thwarted some what by the need to repair two punctured tyres in time after running over the many little bindis at Kings Canyon. The repair kits we had had the rubble glue either gone off or simply leaked out so we had to go into the IGA and get a new kit. We got the last one on the shelf! Woohoo!  

Getting it back home we found it too had been on the shelf for some time and so had gone off and leaked as well. :-( We went round the camp and finally found a group of people that were able to lend us some. Meant a late night repair job and rescheduling of what we were wanting to do.  

We did have a lovely sunset that evening watching the redness of rock come alive from the campsite viewing platform. 



The colours of the desert are just stunning especially at sunset and sunrise. 

So up early the next morning we headed into get into the park and organised the bike hire for 1pm, had a wander round the cultural centre whilst also trying to organise helicopter flights. A very busy morning that meant we didn't get the most out of the centre itself. The buildings themselves reminded us more of an African village. With a number of thatched roofed picnic areas and buildings. It took us back to previous trips in Zimbabwe. 

The centre it self entailed a lot of reading but we were able to impart some of the history of the park with a video that showed the struggle the Anubgu people had to be recognised as the traditional owners of the land. Oh how silly us white fellas look trying to climb the rock, bringing up ideas of how it should be run and ignoring the people that had managed the area for mellenia previously. 

It wasn't long before we moved off to the 10am daily ranger talks at the base of the rock. Our guide Mick lead us for over two hours round the Mala walk explaining both the traditional stories and symbolism of the rock features. It was amazing how the rock is the basis for explaining their laws, with men and women only places and an incredibly complex web of infomation. Two hours was just scraping the surface.  We needed more time here to really take it all in.  

There was also the scientific facts and how the rock came to be.  As part of the ancient mountain range some 900m years ago that has been folded, uplifted and weathered, it remains the worlds biggest free standing monolith. Interestingly only 348metres is above the ground with an estimated 6km of rock still under ground.  That is one BIG rock!

The rock itself is a spectacular sight, larger the life as you get up close. It looked like a marshmallow has been melted over rocks with not a flat spot anywhere. The shapes including the caves were just aweinspiring and meant many a photo was taken. 



There was of course quite a bit of discussion about how people still need to climb the rock even though the traditional owners have asked us not to. Our guide said that there are still an estimated 30,000 - 40,000 that climb it each year.  There have been over 40 of deaths since the 60's but it is believed many more perished before the chain link went up. The concern by the traditional owners is one of respecting their sacred site as well as concern for people's well being.

The guide explained that there is legislation as part of the original lease that means the climb will finish in 2019, an election year! Attempts by protestors last year to cut the chain hadn't stopped the climb so let's hope that the legislation is allowed to stop the silly idea of climbing the rock. 

The walk seen here in the photo above was closed on the day we were there due to high winds at the summit. The next day we did see people climbing it though .. Mm mm

After a quick lunch we were off on our 15km loop around the base. The boys did really well, we can't remember the last time they rode this far. The bikes were a good way to get around, allowing a bit of pace in some places while being to meander through the many gullies and quiet spaces the rock offers. 


The rock in full bloom with pussycat tails everywhere. 



It was very well laid out path and lots of infomation about the different rock features and some of the traditional stories they symbolise. It simply wasn't possible to capture in pictures the features particularly the place where water falls occur. Uluru is actually the aboriginal word for "weeping" and you can certainly imagine how special this place is when it rains. The dark black marks are where algae grow, making a colourful contrast to the sandstone.

This year is an unusually wet year with them receiving more than their annual rainfall by the end of July. Their rainy season is normally summer. So then place is in full bloom. 

Not sure if it's the same furniture maker from up in Kakadu but the ironwood designs are just great. Amazing workmanship. You need a crane to lift 'em though. 

We arrived back to drop the bikes off before making our way over Kata-Tjuta via a fuel stop. It's 40km away and we hadn't filled up since arriving. Andi fell asleep on the way there, an indicator that  we were working them pretty hard. 

We arrived there around 4:40 and with the sun dropping close to the horizon the temperature went with it. We were doing the short 2.1km "lookout 1" walk of the Valley of the Winds.  The breeze lived up to its namesake and so we didn't stay long there. 

The Olga's were named after the sister of the King of Stutgard. There are also a few other bavarian named icons such as Lake Amadeus in the region as well. Whilst it is easier to grasp Uluru from the ground it is much more difficult to see the spectacal of the Olga's as its so spread out. Never mind we had booked a helicopter ride for that reason and it didn't disappoint. 

There are 38 beehives cones and one is more than 100 metres higher than the rock!   We took on board the info from the mornings walk and noticed the different type of rock (conglomerate) for Olgas, as apposed to sandstone for the rock. 

We arrived back home with pretty exhausted boys. They did an excellent job at all the activities with minimal complaint. 

The next morning we were on a tighter than normal deadline as we were being picked up at reception at 9:40 for our scenic flight. Like military precision we were packed up, water filled and all showered, ready to go at 9:10. Phew! But boy did that next 30 minutes drag on!  Plenty of questions like, where is the helicopter? Can we go play in he playground till they come? But we waited patiently and the bus arrived to take us to the airport. 


Very professional mob. Here we are in front of our chariot for the next 30 minutes.

Griff got the front seat this time and the grin from ear to ear showed he appreciated it. Andi, Katie and Stu were across the back seat.


And what a flight it was, perfectly clear day with no cloud. The scenery was just amazing. We will let the photos speak for themselves





What a stunning way to end our visit to the rocks. Very special place indeed.  We arrived back at Charlie and Ernie just around 11. We made short change of a quick snack and then hit the road for highlight of the trip according to Griff - Coober Pedy!!!




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